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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.